FAQ

Presales

Q: How do I pronounce the name?

A: Layman's terms: Say the five letters separately (L, I, B, C, M)

A: Phonetic: El+Eye+Bee+Sea+'Em 

A: IPA: 'ɛl'aɪˈbiˈsiˈɛm`


Q: What is "LiBCM"

A: "Lithium Battery Condition Monitor"

A: A drop-in replacement computer that allows safe lithium battery operation in the G1 Honda Insight (2000-2006).


Q: What is "Linsight"?

A: Previously: an unreleased hardware project (circa 2016), which morphed into "LiBCM".

A: Now: "Lithium Insight", the company that designed and manufactures "LiBCM".


Q: What new features does LiBCM add?

A: More power!  LiBCM can more than double the electric motor's power output.

A: Effortless grid charging comes standard.  Plug LiBCM into an extension cord; LiBCM handles the rest.

A: Built-in cell balancing whenever the car is off.

A: Per-cell voltage measurements.  Diagnose pack issues down to each cell.

A: Custom LCD screen reports real-time hybrid pack data to the driver.

A: Advanced USB diagnostic data.  Log data to your computer as you drive.

A: USB firmware updates... add new features as they become available


Q: Will LiBCM make my car faster?

A: Absolutely.  The difference is night-and-day.

A: Adding the +40% current hack PCB (sold by ic.net user "@Bull Dog") will add even more power.

A: Once you drive an LiBCM-equipped Insight, you'll never want to switch back.

A: Testimonial: youtube.com/watch?v=srkx_Rq2-ro


Q: With all this additional power, can Insight spin the tires off the line?

A: Only when the road is wet or has debris... it's still a Honda Insight... just more powerful.


Q: Does LiBCM work in any other vehicles besides the G1 Honda Insight (2000-2006)?

A: No.  LiBCM is only designed for the G1 Honda Insight.

A: LiBCM is a passion project.

A: With minimal effort (mostly mechanical fitment), LiBCM will probably work in the G1 Honda Civic Hybrid.

A: With dedicated engineering effort, LiBCM could probably work with most NiMH-based hybrid vehicles.

A: I'm not interested in adapting LiBCM to your vehicle (except as a paid consultant).


Q: Do I really need a battery management system (BMS) to use lithium batteries?

A: Most lithium battery chemistries are unstable beyond a narrow voltage range.  Charging/discharging cells beyond this range can cause a thermal event (i.e. fire).

A: Operating a lithium battery without a BMS might work initially, but isn't safe.


Q: What's included with the "DIY LiBCM Kit"?

A: Everything except the actual lithium battery modules.

A: Complete details: linsight.org/kit


Q: Where do I purchase lithium battery modules?

A: See linsight.org/kit


Q: Does LiBCM work with CVT transmissions?

A: Yes.


Q: Does LiBCM work with 2005 & 2006 Honda Insights?

A: Yes.


Q: How long does it take to install a DIY LiBCM Kit?

A: At this point I can do a full swap in a couple hours, so expect to spend between two and eight hours start to finish. It's a lot of work.


Q: Is LiDisplay included with the DIY LiBCM Kit?

A: No, but a basic 4x20 debug LCD is included.

A: LiDisplay uses off-the-shelf hardware, which runs custom firmware written by ic.net member @natalya.  See this thread for information more information.


Q: Is LiBCM better than the OEM computer it replaces?

A: Absolutely, and in every possible way.  The OEM BCM is garbage.


Q: What is an "LiBCM-Equipped IMA Battery"?

A: A completely assembled lithium battery - contained within the original plastic battery housing - with the LiBCM computer already connected and ready to go.  Installation is nearly identical to an OEM battery (see www.linsight.org/install/libcm-equipped-battery).  


Q: Where do I purchase a Drop-In LiBCM Battery?

A: GreenTec Auto is the sole Drop-In LiBCM Battery distributor.

A: I do not sell Drop-In LiBCM Batteries directly to customers; I only sell "DIY LiBCM Kits".


Q: How difficult is it to convert an OEM battery using the DIY LiBCM Kit?

A: See the DIY installation instructions.


Q: What is LiBCM's warranty period?

A: "Drop-in LiBCM Batteries" are warranted per the terms of the authorized reseller.

A: From a legal standpoint, "DIY LiBCM Kits" are provided as-is, without any warranty whatsoever.  Note that each DIY LiBCM Kit is 100% test driven prior to shipment.

A: I will make reasonable efforts to repair defective components at my actual cost, regardless of fault.  If the LiBCM PCB cannot be safely repaired, I will replace the entire PCB at a reduced cost. 

A: On a case-by-case basis, if I determine the failure occurred at no fault of the user, I will repair the PCB for free, excluding shipping costs and installation labor.


Q: Where is LiBCM manufactured?

A: In my garage.


Q: What portions of the original hybrid system does LiBCM replace?

A: The original "Battery Condition Module" computer ('BCM') and the NiMH cells.

A: Complete list of removed OEM parts.


Q: What parts of the original IMA system are modified by LiBCM?

A: The IMA wire harness has a single wire cut and spliced.  Easily revertible.

A: The battery temperature harness has two wires cut and shortened.  Easily revertible.

A: The battery voltage tap harness (with orange side plate) has two wires cut.  Easily revertible as long as you only cut those two wires (more details in installation videos).

A: Full details.


Q: Is the LiBCM Kit dangerous to install?

A: Absolutely.  LiBCM can easily kill you if you don't follow the installation instructions.  Safety videos are provided as needed during the conversion process.


Q: What happens if my Insight is in a wreck?

A: Hopefully you're ok.

A: If you follow the installation instructions, LiBCM isn't any less safe than OEM.

A: LiBCM includes 1/8" aluminum mounting brackets to secure the lithium modules inside the OEM battery enclosure.


Q: How is LiBCM shipped?

A: USA: Flat rate shipping (UPS or USPS) is included in the purchase price.

A: Other: The first $25 is included in the purchase price.  You pay the difference based on the actual USPS rate.


Q: What is LiBCM's recommended ambient operating temperature range?

A: -30 degC to 55 degC


Q: What aftermarket accessories are compatible with LiBCM?

A: Any accessory whose wiring doesn't physically connect to wires inside the IMA bay.

A: Any accessory that modifies the signals between the MCM & ECM (e.g. IMAC&C).

A: Most current hack implementations.  However, LiBCM can spoof the battery current sensor value in software.  Linsight recommends installing @Bull Dog's MCM Current Hack PCB (sold separately).


Q: What aftermarket accessories are NOT compatible with LiBCM?

A: Any and all NiMH-based grid chargers, which are dangerous to use with LiBCM.  LiBCM's built-in grid charger makes these unnecessary.

A: Dischargers of any kind.  LiBCM's built-in balancing hardware makes these unnecessary. 

A: Any device that intercepts/modifies data from the BATTSCI data bus (which routes from the BCM to the MCM).

A: Any device that connects to the battery current sensor.  The OEM sensor is driven from -12 to 12 volts (bipolar), whereas LiBCM drives this sensor from 0 to 12 volts (unipolar).  At least one MIMA product is affected by this difference.  LiBCM still works properly when used with this system, but the MIMA system always thinks the IMA system is charging the battery.  Fixing this behavior requires component value changes (TBD) on the MIMA circuit board.   


Q: Do I need to install a larger fuse to use LiBCM?

A: Only if you also add the MCM Current Hack PCB.


Q: My IMA/CEL light is on with my existing NiMH battery.  Will LiBCM 'fix' that?

A: LiBCM will not work unless the IMA system is entirely present and functional, except that the OEM BCM and the NiMH cells can be in any condition (because LiBCM replaces them entirely).  Everything else in the IMA system must work prior to installing LiBCM.


Q: Will the car still run if LiBCM fails?

A: Yes.  If the IMA system fails, the car will use the backup starter (just like OEM).

A: LiBCM won't leave you any more stranded than an OEM pack will.

A: In an error condition where LiBCM is at-fault, unplugging the BCM connector will allow the IMA system to charge the 12 volt battery (with a CEL).

A: Unless the PCB is damaged, LiBCM will continue monitoring cell voltages even when the BCM connector is unplugged. If a cell gets too high/low, a buzzer will sound (whether or not the vehicle is on).  If you continue driving the vehicle while the buzzer is on, the lithium modules could catch on fire.   


Q: Will LiBCM improve my mileage?

A: If your old pack is toast, then yes.

A: Otherwise, it entirely depends on driving habits.

A: My mpg hasn't changed, but I drive the car much faster/harder now.

A: (Beta) the default voltage spoofing algorithm isn't yet optimized for fuel efficiency.

A: LiBCM supports several different charge profiles.  For example, if you always drive short distances and grid charge when parked, you can tell LiBCM to limit/disable regen.  See config.h for more info.


Q: Why is LiBCM so expensive?

A: It's not.


Q: If I decide the DIY LiBCM Kit isn't for me, can I get a refund?

A: Yes, and you don't need to state a reason.  I will refund your entire purchase price - minus my actual costs** - for any reason whatsoever.  

A: I do not sell Drop-In LiBCM Batteries directly to end users (only DIY LiBCM Kits).  Therefore, if you purchase a Drop-In LiBCM Battery from an authorized installer and decide it isn't for you, then you'll need to contact the installer directly (and go by their terms).

**I will not refund the following fees:

-Actual shipping costs, and/or;

-Fees that PayPal doesn't refund.  If you paid using "friends & family", then that fee is $0.30.  If you paid using "commercial service", then that fee is ~$40, and/or;

-LiBCM Kit parts that are returned damaged; I will charge a reasonable fee to cover the repair.


Q: If I decide to remove LiBCM, how difficult is it to 'go back' to the stock NiMH configuration?

A: Since LiBCM only modifies components within the original battery enclosure, the simplest method is to swap your LiBCM-equipped IMA battery enclosure with an unmodified NiMH pack.  In that case, the only residual modification is the single cut wire on the IMA wire harness.  Reconnecting that wire is trivially easy: just plug the ORG & WHT Anderson connectors into each other.  That's it... now your car is NiMH again.

A: If there's any chance you might want to revert back to NiMH later (using the same battery enclosure), follow the specific "I might go back" instructions noted in these videos: linsight.org/install/diy-libcm-kit/modify-oem-parts

There will be a few leftover holes, but they do not affect the original NiMH functionality.